Friday, June 1, 2012

I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for...Gelato?


           Apparently so, because the noise we hear in the U.S. for ice cream is barely a whisper compared to the racket I’ve joined here in Italy for gelato.  But what is it about gelato that has given rise to gelaterie appearing along streets more frequently than stop signs, and why haven’t ice cream stands taken such a hold in the US? The answer lies in the fundamental differences between gelato and ice cream.
            It’s true that gelato and ice cream serve as each other’s definitions in Italian-English dictionaries, but upon further examination of these two frozen delights, it becomes apparent that a significant amount of information about each is lost in translation.  Upon tasting gelato from any gelateria here in Italy, it is abundantly clear that it is not at all the ice cream we buy at home from Bruster’s or Baskin Robin’s, and it’s definitely not the ice cream we buy in big tubs from the grocery store either.   The main differences between gelato and ice cream are in the materials used to make them, and in the methods by which they are made.

* The following Materials and Methods detail a simple outline of what is used in gelato and ice cream, and how the materials are combined to form the finished product.  The chemistry behind these choices will follow in subsequent posts.

Materials
MATERIALS Gelato Edition
·      Fats  (6%-11%)
o   Generally from whole milk rather than heavy cream
·      Sugar  (16%-21%)
·      Solids  (30%-38%)
o   Taken to be any non-fat or non-water component
·      Water/Flavor  (30%-48%)
o   Excessive water decreases likelihood of desired smooth texture
·      Air Content (20%-25%)
o   This percentage, as opposed to the others, comes from end product volume.  It is not considered a percentage of the solution.
·      Stabilizers and Emulsifiers
MATERIALS Ice Cream Edition
·      Fats (13%-20%)
o   Generally from heavy cream rather than milk
o   Must legally have >10% fat
·      Sugar  (15%-20%)
·      Solids  (9%-12%)
o   Refers to non-fat solids from milk, here does not include flavor additives (i.e. nuts)
·      Water  (55%-64%)
·      Air Content  (40%-60%)
o   This percentage, as opposed to the others, comes from end product volume.  It is not considered a percentage of the solution.
·      Stabilizers and Emulsifiers

METHODS
METHODS Gelato Edition
1)   Preparing a Solution:
·      All materials from above are combined with emulsifiers and stabilizers.  Air is “added” during emulsification and freezing process.
2)   Emulsification:
·      Emulsifying agents are added to the solution to prevent the agglomeration of fats in the ice cream.
3)   Freezing:
·      The solution is frozen while being constantly stirred to prevent the build up of ice crystals.  Stirring with and electric gelato machine helps eliminate excessive air build up.
4)   Serving:
·      Gelato is stored on display at about (-15°C)-(-16°C)
·      A flat, spatula-like spoon is used to retrieve the gelato and “knead” it before adding it to a cone or cup.
METHODS Ice Cream Edition
1)   Preparing a Solution:
·      All materials from above are combined with emulsifiers and stabilizers.  Air is “added” during emulsification and freezing process.
2)   Emulsification:
·      Emulsifying agents are added to the solution to prevent the agglomeration of fats in the ice cream.
3)   Freezing:
·      An ice and salt mixture is created inside a canister to provide an extremely cold center to freeze the ice cream solution in the outer compartment.  Constant churning is required.  This process churns a significant amount of air into the solution.
·      Much more ice forms during the freezing process for ice cream than in the freezing process for gelato.
4)   Serving:
·      Ice cream is stored at
(-18°C)-(-20°C)
·      An ice cream scooper is used to form a ball of ice cream.

 The End Results
Scientific Characterization
·      Gelato:  Good gelato is characterized by a very creamy, dense solid in which the air that has been whipped in (the overrun) is a much less noticeable component than the overrun in ice cream.  Gelato also has a much softer consistency than ice cream
·      Ice Cream: Good ice cream has a distinctly creamy flavor with noticeably more air content than gelato.  The overall consistency of ice cream is much harder than the consistency of gelato.

Personal Characterization and Observations
·      Gelato:  In my personal opinion, which I have been dedicatedly developing with daily trips to different gelaterie, a good cone or cup of gelato feels much lighter than a cone or cup of ice cream we would eat at home. This is a little astonishing because the standard small serving of gelato here is as large or bigger than the portion of ice cream one receives in the US.  The variety of gelato flavors available here also often seems to be of the lighter variety.  Many are fruit flavors that even contain bits of fruit added during the mixing process in addition to bits of fresh fruit or nuts that are added for presentation.  Indeed, some of these flavors seem so deceptively light that many of us here on the trip have convinced ourselves that if we get these delectable fruit varieties, we can allow ourselves an extra gelato treat later in the day (since the first one counted as our fruit, of course J).
·      Ice Cream:  I rarely find myself craving a good cone of ice cream back home in the states.  Maybe this is because unlike here in Italy, I am not walking around in the streets for at least 2-3 hours a day, and there are fewer ice cream stands to tempt me.  Bearing this in mind, I still rarely walk over to the freezer and scoop myself a dish of ice cream.  To be honest, I just feel much more unhealthy after eating a scoop of ice cream (even if it is low fat) than I do after eating a cone of gelato heaped with two or three different flavors.  This seems to be the general consensus throughout our group, because everyone else seems to have established the same daily gelato routine as I have.
      Perhaps this is because the ice cream flavors available to us often only include another desert flavor, like cotton candy or birthday cake, housed within the ice cream itself.  Although there are gelato flavors similar to these desert-on-desert varieties, the gelato flavors simply seem more decadent and light simultaneously.  Overall, I seem to count ice cream as more of a special occasion treat, even though I am not as fond of it as I am of gelato.  Conversely, I have decided to view gelato as almost a daily necessity.

            Buon Appetito a Tutti!


Sources:
The Science of Ice Cream by Chris Clarke


Making Artisanal Gelato: 45 Recipes and Techniques for Crafting Flavor-Infused Gelato and Sorbet at           Home by Torrance Kopfer

http://www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/findsci.html

http://www.deliciosobali.com/about/

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